This Singaporean is a Master Perfumer & Dean of a Perfumery School

It was serendipity that led Martin Koh into the perfume industry.

“I was job hunting after graduating in 1989,” Martin — who studied biochemistry and microbiology at the National University of Singapore — shares.

“That’s when I came across dsm-firmenich's job advertisement for a Project Manager position, targeting science graduates.”

Martin decided to take a chance and apply, landing an interview with the company.

“During the interview, they asked if I’d be interested in becoming a Perfumer,” Martin recalls.
 

Dreaming up new fragrances in Europe

Martin had no idea such a job existed, let alone what it entailed.

“I remember my interviewers telling me that I would be literally dreaming up new fragrances,” he recalls. “You have the idea of the smell you want to make in your head, and then you write the recipe for the scent.”

To his delight, Martin was offered the position. His first step was to undergo an intensive five-year training programme in Geneva, Switzerland.

With much anticipation, Martin packed his bags and set off to Europe, marking the beginning of his extraordinary journey into the world of fragrances.
 

Mastering the art of scent

The first year of the training programme in Geneva proved to be the most challenging.

“I had to learn the smells of all the ingredients we use," Martin explains. “It was like learning a new language. First, you learn the letters, then the words, and then the sentences. Eventually, you create a perfume.”

He also faced another language barrier. "I didn't know French, which made adapting to life in Geneva even more difficult," Martin admits.

At the end of the first year, there was an important exam. “If I didn't pass; that was it,” he says.

Fortunately, Martin succeeded, and with unwavering dedication and hard work, he eventually mastered the art of perfumery.

After completing the training programme, he flew home to work as a Perfumer at dsm-firmenich's Singapore office.

However, in 2001, he moved to London, where he has lived ever since.
 

The path to becoming a Master Perfumer

It took 24 years of honing his craft before Martin earned the esteemed title of Master Perfumer.

“I was honoured as a Master Perfumer in 2013,” Martin shares. “dsm-firmenich reserves this recognition for those who have created iconic perfumes.”

“Being appointed as dsm-firmenich's first Asian and first Singaporean Master Perfumer was a momentous milestone in my career,” Martin reflects.

“It opened more doors for me to push the boundaries of fragrance innovation to craft captivating scents that resonate with our customers across different markets.”

Beyond becoming skilled in perfume creation, Master Perfumers must have achieved significant perfume sales, demonstrating their impact in the industry, and possess expertise across various aspects of the crafting of fragrances.

As someone adept at crafting scents for a variety of products, such as soaps, body washes, hair care, laundry, and household goods, Martin embodies all of these qualifications.
 

A day in the life of a Master Perfumer

“At dsm-firmenich, we believe in conscious perfumery,” Martin says of the company’s philosophy. “We harness nature and biotechnology responsibly to deliver scent solutions that meet our customers’ needs. We also use naturals, synthetics, and biotechnology for maximum impact with minimal environmental harm.”
 

Testing a formula is an elaborate affair. “I immerse myself in each fragrance, following its evolution throughout the day, and also test them in their intended products,” he says.

For instance, when creating soap fragrances, Martin meticulously washes with the soap to assess the diffusion of the perfume, ensuring that every lather delights the senses.

Some of Martin’s notable creations include a fresh apple scent for Super Pell Floor Cleaner in Indonesia and a floral, aloe vera scent for Safeguard Pink’s bar soap in the Philippines.

Despite being surrounded by fragrances and experiencing myriad scents all day long, Martin’s senses have not been overwhelmed. In fact, he even has his favourites.

“I love the smell of fresh apples and lavender,” Martin reveals. “Not necessarily together, but both are universally appreciated.”

But when asked about his favourite creation, Martin finds it difficult to choose just one.

“It’s like trying to pick a favorite child,” he muses. “To be honest, I just feel a sense of accomplishment whenever everything comes together perfectly.

“The perfume not only smells fantastic, but also complements the brand of the product. It brings satisfaction and happiness to the consumers who use it.”
 

Grooming the next generation of perfumers

In addition to creating fragrances, Martin is also the Dean of dsm-firmenich's Perfumery School. He sees it as a way of giving back to the company.

“I oversee training the next generation of young perfumers. I plan, manage, and mentor these aspiring talents globally,” he shares.

“We have trainees at different stages of training around the world. I plan their curriculum at each stage and assess their performance. Currently, I have three trainees under my care in London."

The training follows an apprentice-mentor model. "I evaluate the perfumes each trainee makes," Martin says. "This includes reviewing their formulas and making suggestions to help them improve."

Martin finds great joy in his role as dean and mentor. “It’s a privilege to be able to guide these young artists,” he says.

Seeing his students evolve in their artistry and appreciation for the skill of curating scents is deeply encouraging and inspiring for Martin.

“One of my proudest moments was when someone I had trained was named Master Perfumer in 2022,” Martin shares. “I felt like a very proud older sibling.”
 

The perks and quirks of London living

Living in cosmopolitan London has broadened Martin’s horizons and enriched his experiences.

“Prior to relocating, I had visited the city numerous times,” Martin shares. “That’s probably why I personally found it relatively easy to settle in, with no real shocks or challenges.”

“There are also some peculiarities in the UK," Martin says with amusement, nodding to the city's quirks. “For instance, you'll often find amusing food names like Spotted Dick, Toad in the Hole, and Pigs in a Blanket on menus.”

Martin has also picked up many slang expressions unique to Londoners. “Certain terms like ‘chuffed to bits’ and ‘in actual fact’ are really specific to London,” he shares.

Aside from spending time with existing Singaporean friends living in London, Martin has also met new people through interest groups, classes, and meetups.

“There are lots of events in London catering to everyone and every interest,” Martin says. “For example, if you’re interested in Argentine Tango, there are classes and events for amateurs and devotees alike.”

These events, coupled with the ease of spreading news through social media and word-of-mouth, make it a breeze to find communities and meet people with similar interests in London.
 

Creative inspiration in bustling London

But that’s not all London has to offer; culturally, it’s a fantastic city too.

“There are a lot of creative stimuli, which is especially vital since I’m working in the perfume industry.” Martin says.

“The blend of different cultures and the vibrant arts scene here have significantly influenced my work,” he explains. “Every day, there’s something new to see, smell, and experience, which keeps my creative juices flowing.”

Major art exhibitions at places like the National Gallery or the Royal Academy of Art inspires Martin. “These art shows often influence the Colour of the Year!" he reveals. Every year, dsm-firmenich partners with Pantone to create a unique fragrance based on the Pantone Color of the Year.

The theatre and musical scene captivate him as well. “These productions excel at giving the audience an unforgettable experience. Likewise, I strive to create perfumes that provide users with a similarly delightful experience.”

Professionally, Martin also finds the opportunities and environment in London to be incredibly fruitful.

“Living here has truly allowed me to collaborate with talented individuals from all over the world, enriching my perspective and enhancing my craft.”
 

The fragrance that lies ahead

“Perfumes have a massive reach and impact on people, whether it's through creating scents or grooming the next generation of perfumers,” Martin says.

“This industry speaks to the heart,” he notes. “You smell, think, dream, and experiment — not necessarily in that order. It’s a privilege to be able to impact the lives of roughly one billion consumers.”

Martin’s latest projects include crafting fragrances for the luxury market. “I recently collaborated with my colleagues in Fine Fragrance on premium candles,” he shares. “I curated scents that embody luxury and glamour.”

Amidst his busy work schedule, Martin stays connected to his roots by maintaining close ties with loved ones in Singapore. “I visit Singapore twice a year to catch up with friends and family,” Martin shares.

Even when he’s back in London, Martin continues his quest to find good Singaporean food, such as authentic Nasi Lemak (rice with coconut milk).

Despite missing certain aspects of Singaporean cuisine, Martin has adapted to life in London. For Singaporeans aspiring to follow his path and work overseas, his advice is straightforward:

“There’s a world out there to discover. Don’t be afraid to explore it.”
 

This article was first published by the Singapore Global Network (SGN), a 130,000-strong network connecting professionals and building communities across the globe. For networking events, industry insights and stories like this, join SGN here.